August 31, 2002
Hey Wes,
I have a Kenwood VR-4090 receiver and just got a tube
integrated amp with three line-level inputs only (CD, tuner, and aux). I want to know if I
can connect the integrated amp to the receiver to drive the speakers for both music and
home theater and, if so, what to do about the volume settings for each piece. Should it
work through the left and right pre-outs of the receiver, or is that the wrong signal for
the integrated?
Thanks,
Shiva
Hi Shiva:
I'm not exactly sure why you want to do this -- do you
think the tube integrated sounds better than the receiver? It sounds as though it's an
older model -- does it match the receiver's rated output?
The big problem as I see it is that the two components
probably have completely different sonic signatures (older tube products can be quite
colored) and they probably have different gain structures, so matching loudness between
the two will probably be a huge problem.
But you didn't ask my opinion; you asked how to do it.
If I'm wrong and your tubed integrated is recent, it
probably has a tape loop / A/V passthrough. If it does, you're home free. Just wire the
receiver into the pass through, connecting the integrated to your left and right speakers.
Then you listen to the integrated, using its volume control, for stereo. Set the
integrated to the passthrough function and use the receiver as a volume control for
multichannel material.
If the integrated amp doesn't have an A/V loop, I'm not
sure how you'd arrange the two, but I do know that the pre-outs would be the wrong way to
go -- possibly you could route the signal through the tape monitor loop, but then you'd
have to deal with gain-matching and that would be a hassle. Why did this strike you as a
good idea? (I'm actually asking.)...Wes Phillips
August 23, 2002
Wes,
I read your review of
the Titanic subwoofer, and I would appreciate your opinion. I have a
small-to-medium-sized home-theater room. I currently have the Athena Technologies AS-F2
Audition Series tower speakers and a C1 center. My rear soundstage consists of four Axiom
QS4 surround speakers (totally Canadian). The AS-F2s have a frequency response of 35Hz
20kHz +/- 3dB, sensitivity is 93dB. I am considering purchasing either the Titanic, the
Hsu VTF-2 or the SVS 25-31PCi. One feature I like about the Titanic subwoofer is the
continuously variable phase control and rumble filter.
Which sub would you recommend?
Thanks,
Marvin
Hi Marvin:
They're all good subs, so you can't go wrong, exactly. I
only know the SVS by reputation, so I can't offer any unique insight there. The Hsu, at
$500, is a steal and it's already assembled. It also outputs an honest 25Hz and has a
"variable tuning" feature that produces about 4dB extra in "movie"
mode, which is impressive performance.
The Titanic is $150 cheaper and doesn't go quite as deep or
sound as powerful, but I found it extremely easy to integrate with a wide variety of
speakers. But you do have to assemble it.
I don't consider that a hassle -- in fact, I enjoyed the
assembly process and, as silly as it sounds, actually felt as though I had
"built" it. Some folks will want it precisely because of that extra involvement
and some won't, but any discussion of the Titanic that doesn't take assembly into account
is incomplete.
In other words, the Hsu is already assembled and goes
deeper, while the Titanic will take about half a day to assemble and is almost one third
cheaper....Wes Phillips
August 22, 2002
Hi Wes,
Great service you have here.
I am getting conflicting advice on the matter of playing
DTS through my receiver. I bought a Nakamichi AV-8 receiver, which does not have the DTS
symbol on it. I understand that this means it does not have the DTS decoder/processor
onboard. If I buy a DVD player with the DTS processor onboard, can my AV-8 make use of it
so that I get the benefit of the high-quality DTS sound? Or is it a waste of money buying
the DVD with DTS decoder because the AV-8 can't handle it?
Thanks,
Phillip Cosser
Hi Phillip:
If the Nak took 5.1-channel analog inputs, your theory
would be a good one: Buy a DTS-decoding DVD player and plug the analog outputs into the
receiver's analog inputs and you'd have DTS. Unfortunately, the AV-8 does not have
multichannel analog inputs, so you won't derive any benefit in your current system from
buying a DTS DVD player.
On the bright side, Dolby Digital doesn't have quite the
same bit rate, but it doesn't suck too bad!....Wes Phillips
August 21, 2002
Dear Wes,
I am integrating and upgrading my home theater and hi-fi by
adding a Musical Fidelity A3CR power amp and B&W CDM1 NT speakers for the front
channels. I will add these via the receiver's preamp out for HT, and leave the receiver
switched off for stereo.
Unfortunately, it will be some time before I can afford
this quality for the rear and center-channel speakers. Can you suggest speakers that may
match the seamless, full-bodied sound of the CDM1 NTs? The new B&W 600 Series 3 are an
obvious choice but they are a little too forward and excitable, as I listen to DVD-A and
DD 5.1 soundtracks as well as movies.
Other choices I can afford are from the JMlab Chorus range,
the new Quad L Series bookshelf, Mission 7, and Tannoy MXs. To their advantage, the Quads
and B&Ws have extended tweeter ranges for DVD-A and SACD.
The subwoofer will be from Hsu Research. Is that a match,
and what would you add to the CDM1 NTs?
Many thanks for your articles and advice.
Rob
Hi Rob:
I suspect either the Quads or the B&Ws will do great as
surrounds, although let me urge you to hear the Axiom QS8s I reviewed a few weeks back. I
love 'em and they're only $470/pair.
And the Hsu is Hsuper, I mean super, so no problem there.
As to a center-channel speaker, I'm going to suggest
something radical If money is tight and you want to match the center to your CDM1 NTs,
don't buy anything at all! That's right, save your money for your ultimate center-channel
and set your system up to run a phantom center-channel (most processors will let you do
this).
A lot of people object to the center-channel speaker,
claiming that a properly calibrated pair of high-resolution loudspeakers image perfectly
in the center when both are fed the same signal and that center-channels do too good
a job of nailing that image to the center -- especially in systems that play multichannel
music programs (and here, I certainly agree).
So eliminate it -- you might decide you never needed it.
And even if you don't, the cost of this particular experiment is hard to beat....Wes
Phillips
August 13, 2002
Hi Wes:
I'm looking at upgrading out of the dark ages of my
20-year-old SAE equipment. The processor/amplifier front runners are B&K's AVR307
(150Wpc), with modifications to eventually add two monoblocks for the left and right side,
and using the remaining power for the second zone. The alternative is a separate setup by
Rotel RSP-1066 preamp/processor, two RB-1070 monoblocks (130Wpc bridged to 360W) for the
left and right, RMB-1066 (60W, bridged to 150W) for the center and surrounds, and an
RMB-1048 for the multi-room source (40W). The B&K unit costs approximately $4000, and
the Rotel is about $4500. The B&K processor is definitely better, but the separates
offer better power management. The B&K would limit my second zone to one pair of
speakers, while the Rotel would allow up to four pairs. I'm not sure if the peak power of
150W on the B&K is true when all channels are under load. Would the Rotel RMB-1066 be
better having only three channels? How much of the internal circuits are shared in the
B&K? How much crosstalk will there be? Do you know of any additional data on Rotel;
I've been looking but have not found any, unlike on B&K where there is too much
contradictory data?
Speakers are next on the agenda. I've been looking at
B&W's CM and CDM series. The CMs are nice for home theater, but for true stereo (only
two speakers without using the sub for added bass) they just don't do it. The CDMs are
much better at handling true stereo, but will cost $1500 more. The alternative is the
less-expensive Polk LSi series, similar in cost to the B&W CM series. How does
Polk stand up to B&W for sound and durability? What are your thoughts? Thanks.
Pat Lee
Hi Pat:
It's a little hard to say, since you don't really tell me
how you intend to use the system, but your approach to the Rotel separates seems
needlessly complicated to me. If you really need multiple-zone control (up to eight
pairs?), why not contemplate the Integra DTR-8.2 I reviewed here recently?
Personally, I'm still of the opinion that several small
systems (one in each room where you need music) tend to work better than a complex
multi-zone system -- and you can always link the small systems together for those
occasions when you do want to listen to the same music in all the rooms.
As far as I'm aware, the B&K power amps don't share
anything but a power supply, so crosstalk should not be an issue. I've gone on the record
with my high regard for the Polk loudspeakers. I'm sure the B&W are also very good,
but the Polks are easy to drive and sound spectacular. At the prices Polk is charging, the
LSi-series speakers are a steal....Wes Phillips
August 12, 2002
Hi Wes,
I am in the process of putting together a home-theater
system. I have RBH 1044se speakers for the mains, RBH 441se for the surrounds and the
center, and an RBH 1010sep powered sub. I plan to use a Denon receiver, only as a
preamp/processor. As all the RBH speakers are rated at 4 ohms, I want to make sure I have
enough power to run them effectively. Some of the amps I am considering are Cinepro,
Bryston, and the Sunfire Cinema Grand. It's hard to audition all these amps in my area. I
plan on listening to music (30%) and movies (70%). Any advice on these or other amps would
be a great help.
Steve
Hi Steve:
Check out my review of the
Integra DTR-8.2. The Integra amp offered lots of cool (and very usable) features and
had gobs of power. I liked it a lot....Wes Phillips
August 10, 2002
Hi Wes,
I have a DTS-ES THX-certified Onkyo receiver. I have no
left wall. It opens up to the kitchen. What type of speakers should I use for the surround
speakers? What about for the rear? Thanks.
Tav
Hi Tav:
It doesn't really matter which type of speaker you use,
although I really like the Axiom QS8 "quadpole" surrounds ($470/pair), which
would work really well as both surrounds and rears. The important thing is getting the
speaker up above ear level, so, lacking a wall, stands are your salvation. There are a lot
of choices available, but I particularly like the M&K ST1 base that employs readily
available 1"-diameter pipe, which most hardware stores can cut to length. Here's a link....Wes Phillips
August 6, 2002
Dear Wes,
Have you played around with Dolby Pro Logic II?
What are your thoughts?
Ron Berry
Hi Ron:
It is certainly better than DPL at decoding
matrixed recordings. I did not find it a universal panacea for reproducing stereo
recordings as surround material -- you are still quite dependent upon out-of-phase
information to produce the surround effects and that varies from disc to disc. Sometimes
it works very well, at other times it doesn't.
If you have a large collection of DPL material
you enjoy watching, DPL II is a wonderful option and probably worth trading up for. If you
don't, it can improve some soundtracks substantially, but I'd want at least another
compelling reason to trade up. (And keep in mind that, as a guy, I consider "I want a
new receiver" sufficiently compelling. If you have an even better reason, don't even
hesitate.)...Wes Phillips
August 3, 2002
Dear Wes,
Isn't it better to use the speaker-level inputs
and outputs of a subwoofer to make your system more flexible in terms of using of the
variable LPF on the subwoofer, thereby defeating the fixed LPF on the receiver, which is
sometimes set too high (90Hz, in my case)?
Regards,
D.P.Gada
Hi D.P:
Considering that the speaker
level pass-throughs on almost all subwoofers are nasty, audibly compromised connections, I
think you'd need a fairly compelling reason to employ them rather than connecting from a
line source. Using the pass-through has an effect on all the sound coming from the
speakers, and I try to avoid using speaker-level subwoofer inputs like the plague.
If you feel the LPF on the preamp
is set too high, then set the processor for LARGE SPEAKERS/NO SUBWOOFER and use a
full-range audio out to the sub's line in and then set its crossover as needed....Wes
Phillips
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