ONHOMETHEATER.COM"Ask Us" Archives

...to December 31, 2003

 

A very capable sub?

December 31, 2003

Hey Wes,

I just read your SoundStage! review of the new Magnepan MMG W/MMG C setup. Thanks for writing it. I'm planning to order it tomorrow.

Now I'm wondering about a sub. You mentioned the Polk PSW-650, but since we just freed up about $1000 from my speaker budget, I'm wondering if there's another sub you'd recommend for a slightly larger budget. I am a big fan of Victor Wooten (the most demanding test of bass reproduction I've ever come across), and I want a sub that can handle him. (If you don't know him, he's the bassist for Béla Fleck, and can almost match Béla's banjo on his bass. Try his solo "A Show of Hands," if you want to hear what he can do.) Anyway, if I'm looking for very, very responsive bass, and I'm willing to spend up to $1500 street price. Is there another sub you'd recommend, or would you still go with the Polk?

Charlie

There are many subs you could use, including the Earthquake Sound SuperNova MKIV-12P, which impressed me so much when I reviewed it.

Another option would be two subwoofers. When reproducing Victor Wooten's fast, furious runs, you want agility, not just raw power. Smaller drivers, such as the 10" woofers used in the PSW-650, tend to be quicker than 12" or 15" drivers, so you won't get driver lag when Mr. Wooten goes into overdrive. Two subs are also sometimes easier to integrate into the room than a single sub (although all subwoofer/room integration is equal parts voodoo and science, in my experience)....Wes Phillips


No sub connection

December 29, 2003

Hi Wes,

I have a Kenwood KR-V7030 receiver, purchased about 12 years ago, that still gives excellent performance. It is set up for surround sound (front, rear, and center); however, it is not equipped for connecting a subwoofer. Because I don't want to upgrade my system at this time, is there any way to connect and drive a subwoofer?

Jack

I've tried looking up your Kenwood model, but it's a tad long in the tooth for much Internet coverage. Given its age, it's almost certainly a Dolby Pro Logic surround unit, which means it is a matrixed surround unit, not one which utilizes the discrete information encoded onto DVDs.

What's that mean? Back when videocassette was king, Dolby Pro Logic was the only surround option. An analog-based system, DPL-encoded center-channel and rear-channel information into the left- and right-channel signal and then extracted the information, steering it to the appropriate speakers.

Digital surround was developed for laserdiscs and is what all DVDs use. It employs five (sometimes six, these days) full-frequency, discrete audio channels, plus a separate channel, which routes the bass information to a subwoofer.

That doesn't mean you can't enjoy the Kenwood's performance, simply that it doesn't have any means to utilize the discrete LF-channel information encoded onto DVDs. There's a fix around to this, however. Most subwoofers accept the full-range audio output from your amplifier (your L and R channels) and use a low-pass filter to extract the bass information. You then connect your speakers to the sub's high-pass output and Bob's your uncle....Wes Phillips


Big Monster or little Monster?

December 24, 2003

Hi Wes,

I am thinking about purchasing a Monster Power HTPS7000 or HTS5100. Considering the substantial price difference, would the '7000 deliver enough of a performance improvement over the '5000 to make it a worthwhile investment? My system includes a Pioneer Elite 58" rear-projection TV with HD cable service, Yamaha 80Wpc 5.1 surround receiver, and the Infinity Modulus speaker system. Thanks for your help.

Randy

I'm not entirely sure that you'll notice a day-and-night sonic difference between the HTPS7000 and the HTS5100 with the Yamaha, but I suspect, given the resolution of the Infinity Modulus speakers, that you would find a noticeable difference.

What I am sure of is that HDTV is extremely sensitive to the quality of the power line and that the '7000's balanced power will result in a superior video image, which is the entire point of high-def, after all.

Ask your dealer for an A/B of any HDTV with and without the '7000. I don't think you'll be in any doubt over whether or not you can do without it....Wes Phillips


Advice for a busy buyer

December 22, 2003

Dear Wes,

I'm hoping that you can answer some questions for me. I'd appreciate it because I'm tired and overwhelmed. I'm ripping out my entertainment center in order to put in a 60" LCD TV and new audio equipment. I need some help on the audio.

I used to stay up on A/V stuff in general. I would do a lot of research when making a purchase. At 49, I'm busy as hell and tired (not to mention under pressure from the wife because of my son's upcoming wedding). I just want to buy something good. I know I'm being lazy; forgive me.

I love my music, but I don't get to listen to it as much as I used to. The wife and I do rent a lot of movies. I need new equipment -- a 7.1 receiver or a preamp and amps. I also need DVD player and speakers. My total budget is $6000–$10,000.

I know that selection of speakers is to a large extent personal audition and preference. I want a good representation of the original product without too much colorization. To date, I've looked at the Klipsch Reference Series, B&W, MartinLogan, and JMlab Electra 926s. I liked the JMlab speakers best (they also seem like the best bang for the buck). What do you think of them? Years ago, when Thiels were available locally, I thought they sounded good.

I've been auditioning only the front speakers. I was told to listen to them for music and if I like them, they'll work for surround sound . However, last night I was told that's not necessarily true. When coupled with the center and rear speakers, the main fronts may not play movie soundtracks all that well. Is this true?

Charles

Yes, choosing speakers is quite personal, but I like the JMlab, and I've always felt the Electra 926s have never gotten the respect they deserved. They're pretty tasty.

As to the question of the importance of the front left and right loudspeakers, I do feel that if they don't move you, the system won't move you. However, that doesn't make the center and surrounds bit players -- they're extremely important, especially the center-channel speaker. In many films, the center channel carries all the dialog and quite a bit of the effects as well.

In addition, the center must be a tonal match to the left and right speakers or you'll notice timbral shifts as characters and actions pan from speaker to speaker.

Do pick the front L and R speakers first, but then make sure the center is a good match....Wes Phillips


Thoughts on Bose

December 18, 2003

Hello Wes,

I wonder what your thoughts are on the Bose LS 35 system. My living room dimensions are 15 1/2'W x 22 1/2'D x 7 3/4'H. It doesn't really matter to me if you recommend a home theater in a box or a component system. I have about $3000 to spend and I want to get the most bang for my buck. If at all possible (in this price range, of course) I would like to have a system that will shake my neighbors' walls! Their home is about 300'-500'. from mine. OK, I know that for my small budget I shouldn't expect this, but you understand what I'm after.

Chad

Bose speakers have never been my cup of tea, but that shouldn't influence your decision because these things are so personal.

Where Bose really shines is in customer satisfaction. They put together a package (and setup system) that will allow you to get their sound straight out of the box -- and that's not a small consideration. If you like that sound, you'll be extremely happy with the Bose system. Many Bose customers are convinced that no other complete solution would allow them to extract as much of the system's potential in their environment -- and they may be right.

If you want to assemble a system yourself, look at the Axiom Epic Grand Master or Polk's RM 7600 system (which features my current fave subwoofer, the PSW-650, so you might just rattle your neighbors' walls); then add an Integra DTR-6.4 or Marantz 7400 and matching DVD player and you'll be good to go....Wes Phillips


Totem or B&K or...?

December 16, 2003

Hi Wes,

I'm new to the home-theater arena. I have an Integra DTR 5.3 receiver, and I'm in the market for a set of speakers. I have narrowed down to Totem Mites with Dreamcatcher center and rears or M&K Xenon series: LCR 25 fronts, LCR 35 center, and LCR 25 surrounds. I thought I'd put off a subwoofer purchase until later because of the expense. Do you have an opinion on the two systems I've chose, or am I way off base and need to look at something else?

Gary

Both the M&Ks and the Totems are extremely good choices. However, in that price range, you should also consider PSB's Alpha B and Alpha C (center-channel) -- or consider a really good-quality all-in-one speaker system, such as the Athena Technologies Micra system I reviewed in November....Wes Phillips


For a new home theater

December 11, 2003

Wes,

I'm looking to purchase my first true home-theater setup (previously I've only had a low-end HTIB) to pair with my planned purchase of an HDTV (I'm considering either the Sony LCD rear projection or Samsung DLP). I saw your review of the Axiom Epic Grand Master system, and was wondering how you feel it compares to the other options in this price range. (I'm looking to spend no more than $2000 or so, including accessories such as stands and cables). From looking at other reviews, the other systems I'm considering are Athena Technologies Audition Series, Paradigm System Three.2, Aperion Audio Intimus 6.1 System, and Dahlquist System 4. I would also be interested in any receiver recommendations in the $500-$1000 price range.

The room this will go in, which is my basement, is approx. 13' wide by 23' long. It's a wood-paneled room with carpeting (if that matters). The way the room is configured, the listener will be sitting directly across from the TV/front speakers the shorter way -- about 9' away.

Thanks for any help you might have a moment to provide.

Todd

I really like the Axiom Epic Grand Master system a lot -- especially those way-past-cool QS8 quad-pole surrounds, which rank up there with the $750/pair Magnepan MGMC1s as the best surround speaker I've ever heard. Your other choices look very good, too -- I just haven't lived with 'em, so I don't have the same level of involvement with 'em.

The great thing about surround sound is that the room orientation is less of a deciding factor -- as long as you pay careful attention to setup. Be most careful to place the front right, center, and front left speakers the same distance from your favorite viewing chair and measure the distance to your surrounds and program that into your A/V receiver. Do those simple things and your 13' by 23' room (especially one that's underground) ought to sound pretty darn good.

As to receivers, I'm very fond of the Integra DTR-6.4 at the moment. It has lots of inputs, a great video switcher (a necessity these days), and even an A-Bus port (in case you want to send signals upstairs to the rest of the house). I also like the Marantz 7400, which lacks the A-Bus function, but sounds awfully good....Wes Phillips


Receiver for digital-to-analog conversion?

December 4, 2003

Hi Wes,

I'm in Australia and I'd like to say how much I enjoy your site. Looking back over numerous letters and responses has been very interesting and informative. Thank you.

My question is all about the secret art of digital-to-analog conversion. I don't fully understand it and wonder if you please help me get my head around it?

I'm looking for a new CD player and notice that my Yamaha RXV1300 receiver has a built-in 24-bit/192kHz DAC. I'm not really sure what this means. Can I spend my money on the transport only and let the amp do the conversion?

May I have your suggestions on a CD player? As I always back the 'best' technology, I now have a study full of obsolescence (e.g., Betamax and LPs), so I'm happy to go with CD rather than try and predict the SACD and DVD-A path. Besides, I have a few hundred CDs that have only just replaced my old records.

I primarily listen to stereo via B&W Nautilus 802 speakers, using my RXV1300 just as a preamp driving some big old Yamaha MX-1s and MX-1000s. Old but great! I still get excited about the class-A heat and power bill! I have some smaller B&Ws for the surround and center-channel sound (when used for movies or DSP).

The Musical Fidelity Nu-Vista CD player is still out of my price range, but it has inspired me to upgrade from my old Sony 502 ES. I'm clearly missing out on something. I'm not concerned about my DVD player just yet, as the video and surround experiences cover a multitude of audio weakness, but I'd appreciate any guidance on a good CD player.

John Grogan

It doesn't sound to me as though you need any help getting your head around digital-to-analog conversion. You've got the basics down from the sound of it, but I'll do a brief synopsis for anyone who came in late.

All CD players contain DACs as well as transports, just as all integrated amplifiers have both preamplifiers and power amplifiers. When CD was first introduced, it never occurred to anyone to split the two functions, but audiophiles were used to high-quality components having specialized areas of performance and pretty much demanded that high-end manufacturers follow the preamp/power-amp model.

Splitting the functions had some obvious benefits, chief among them the fact that DAC technology was changing fast and having the ability to change only the digital-to-analog section gave consumers a way to upgrade processors without junking their transports.

But there's a hidden thorn in that rose: the use of multiple clocks in separate digital components led to an unsuspected problem which single box units did not have -- jitter.

Is the jitter caused by separating the functions of the transport and the processor bad enough to overwhelm the quality difference of a better DAC? That all depends. Some digital connections sound better than others; some processors have clock-linking schemes that eliminate jitter entirely.

Audition a new player and see if its internal DAC sounds better than when it is linked to the one in the Yamaha. Usually, I get asked this question the other way around: I'm buying a new A/V receiver and need to know whether its DAC is better than the one in my DVD player. Whichever way you ask the question, the best connection is the one you like more.

As to suggestions, you didn't mention a price range, but I've been very impressed by the Classè CDP-10. At about half the Classé's price, the Arcam DiVA CD72 delivers an awful lot of the same sound.

BTW, I really dig the system you've described and the thinking behind it. It sounds like you're having fun and enjoying your music, which is what all this is supposed to be about....Wes Phillips


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